Apparel



5. LESSON, ALSO KNOWN AS I. L. LESAVOY APPAREL Filed April 14. 1927 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 mvzm'on JSa-M M ATTORNEYS Nov' 15, 1927. 1,649,711

I. LESSON, ALSO KNQWN AS I. L. LESAVOY APPAREL Filed April 14. 1927 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORN EYS 1,649,711 I. LESSON, ALSO KNOWN AS I. LESAVOY APPAREL Filed April 14. 1927 '3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR 55% M,

ATTORNEY-S Patented Nov. 15, 1927.

STATE- 1g ISADORE LESSON ALSO KNOW N .AS ISADDBE L; LESAVOY, 0F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

arrAnEL.

Application filed April 14, 1927, Serial No, 183,861, and in Canada October 26, 1926.

This invention relates to bifurcated apparel garments, such, for instance, as a pair of underwear bloomers or bathing trunks, or the drawers portion of a union suit, or of a one piece bathing suit, or a pair of pa jama trousers, &c.; wherein (1) these apparel units are composed of a pair of sections, each section having, from the Waist down, a rear edge having an upper portion, an intermediate curved portion and a lower portion, each Section also having a front edge portion opposite said lower portion of the rear edge, and wherein til) said curved portions of the two sections are stitched together to form a central or crotch seam, and on each section said lower portion of the rear edge and said front edge portion are to be stitched together to form a leg seam, such leg seams joining said central scam at a common point. 7

The improvement uttered by the present invention, as will be explained, is attained whether each of said sections includes one or more pieces of fabric, and is also attained whether each section is cut as a separate member or both sections are cut to form parts of a single piece of fabric.

The invention provides an apparel unit as hereinabove described, hereinaltefcalled a garment, which shall be self-reinforcing across the seat, due to the automatic creation, on the occurrence of a cross-crotch pull, of an elongate bundling of the seat material across the crotch distinctly centralized some distance to the rear of said seam intersection point.

This is attained by relationing in a novel way the tarious edge portions above mentioned, and a straight ol the goods from which the sections are cut.

in the drawings,

Figure-1 is a l'ragmentary view showing some 01' such relations;

Figure 2 shows on a slightly reduced scale a pair of separate sections for making a pair of bloomcrs,-parts between dot and dash lines of Figure :5 corresponding to the parts of Figure l;

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2, showing the said two bloomer sections cut from a single piece;

Figure 4 indicates modifications, the full lines boundingsections for making pajamas;

Figure 5 is a view showing on an enlarged scale a section of Figure 2;

Figure 6 is a fragmentary front perspective showing a typical crotch-adjacent garment structure;

Figure 7 is a similar perspective View lool ing toward the right in Figure 6;

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 7, showing the elongate bundling;

.Figure 9 is a diagrammatic transverse sec-- tion of the bundling.

Referring to Figure 5, the section shown has, in common with the corresponding sections of Figures 1 to 4, a rear edgetroin the waist line down, (which waist line may be shaped as desired, for instance as indicated at 18, it it be the upper boundary of the garment), composed 01 an upper portion 11, an intermediate curved portion 11, and a lower portion 13. The upper end of said lower port on meets the lower end of the curved portion at a point 14; The section also has a front edge composed of a lower portion 13, and an upper portion 15; these portions meeting at a point 17, just below a slight flaring 20 preferably present, to l'acihtate seaming together the edge portions 13 and 125 as well as to help in maintaining a decided character for point 17 after seaming. Beaming together said edges 13 and 13f makes the leg Seam for one or the sections, while seaming the corresponding edge portions 12, and 12 of the companion section makes the other leg seam. 'lhen, when the central or crotch seam is made as just described, thetwo leg seams will both meet the crotch seam at a common point, shown at 1 17 in Figure 6. ,ThiS brings together the two sets of points 14: and 17 (the notch 16 of Figure 3 corresponding to the flares indicated at 20 in rigure a), so that the leg seams are located at 1225 and 1:23", and the crotch seam at 111, in Figures (3, 7 and 8.

The l'ront seam 115, presentif the sections 01 either of Figures 2 and at are used, is made by joining the edges 15 of the sections. llowevcr, when the linished garment is to he say a pair of pajamas, the trout seam 115 need not be present, at least along the entire lengths of edges 15; for instance, the seam 115 may run up only as far as the broken line 115 of Figure 6, and the edges 15 above such line finished separately.

The broken lines of Figures 2, 3 and 4; are merely to indicate that the sections need not be unitary within the full lines, but may be rnade of several pieces seamed together, or

partly together and partly separately, to provide/dotting and donning plackets, say along said broken lines. The broken lines marking oil" upper extensions oi the sections of Figure 4e are merely to indicate that the garment may be upwardly extended to form a union suit or the like.

In other words, the principles of the invention go beyond the mere showing of Figure 5, which is only illustrative of the 1nven-' tion as applied to making womens bloomers; and consequently the lower end 14 of the lower portion 13 of the rear edge, is shown as having a co-terminus with bottom edge 19 which, in. the finished garment,if suchbe abloomer, encircles the knee preferably with such fullness as to permit the aplication of an elastictape for gathering the ower end hi the bloomer leg yieldingly around the leg of the body.

Figure 5 shows most clearly the chief novelty of the invention, as well as preferable characteristics of the cut of each section, as to shapes and relations of edgeportions 11", 11 and 13 for the rear of the garment and. of edge portion 13 at the front, and the relations of such edge portions to a straight of the goods; such straights being indicated by the lines forming the cries-cross hatched areas of Figure 5. A straight of the goods, consequently, thus runs alonghne 25.

Preferably, the intermediate curved edge ortion 11 is substantially an arc of a bircle, so that line 28, substantially equal to either of lines 21 and 22, parallel to the straights of the goods, may be said to represent the radius on which the curve is struck; line 241, tangent to the curve near its lower end, is almost perpendicular to the upper edge of edge 13; the upper portion 11 of the rear edge is a straight line continuation of the straight of the goods indicated by line 25; the true or full bias of the goods is indicated by the line 26; broken line 27 is perpendicular to line 26; and, where the garment to be made is an adult womans bloomer line 21 represents approximately one-fifth the length of the line 1417, and line 22 represents roughly one-third the length of line125.

The essentials are:

That, whether or not the lower portion 13 of the rear edge of the section has a lower terminus at the knee point (1 1 of Figure 5), or below the knee point as in the case of pajamasas indicated in Figure 4:, (a) said terminus is so located that the same is ofiset, in a direction perpendicular to the straight of the goods indicated by the line125, from the lower end 11 of the upper portion 11", by at least approximately one-sixth the oil'- set, in the same direction, of the upper end 1 1- of said lower portion, from said lower end 11 of said upper portion; and (1)) these wearer,

various edge portions are so proportioned. and relatively arranged that when the garment is finished, a line of pull, across the seatv of the garment, will meet the curved portion l1 intermediate its ends and at a point, as the point X, where such curve is cut on an appreciable bias, as would be the case were the line 31* assumed to represent such line of pull A; relative offset, as to the lower and upper ends of said lower por tion-of the rear edge of each section, in regard to the lower end 11 of the upper edge portion 11 as just described, that is, where the relation is say 6 inches to one inch, gives a fairly satisfactory bundling effect; but a very good bundling ellect is Obtained when the relative offset is such that the relation is six inches to four inches or even possibly a little more, while the ideal bun dling efiect'is apparently obtained when the relation is six inches to three inches,

The bundling effect just referred to is illustrated very clearly in Fi ures 8 and 9. W hen a garment made accor ing' to the invention is subjected to a pulling strain across the seat, as indicated by the arrows 31 of Figure 7, the seat material 30 automatically redisposes itself to form a distinctly centralized elongate bundling as indicated at 82 in Figure 8. This bundling is a rope-like reinforcement auteinatically temporarily made; and apparently always having the peculiarityindicated in Figure 9. The two plies-32 hook over and under, to bring the (lentils-ply edge portion 32 toward or even against the seat material at the point 32, in the latter case sometimes even to hook un der the edge portion 32 and point the lat ter toward the roots"'32 of the plies 32, In operation, the bundling 32 increases in transverse compactness and hook-over, and in surprising strength, the greater the in tensity of the pull along its length. In this connection, note that where the curved portion 11 is circularly curved as preferred, the same, in that subdivision thereof extending upwardly from the upper end of line 31, to the lower end 11 of upper portion 11, progressively increases its degree of inclination to the straight of the goods indicated by the line- 14-47 so that, if the intensity of the cross-crotch pull increases, there is an increase in bundlingintensity, at a rate which may be loosely described as corresponding to a geometric proportion, which-probably explains the extraordinary strength of the rope-like reinforcement across the seat on the occurrence of a crosscrotch strain which would readily rupture the ordinary garment at a point of scam intersection even where expensively reinforced with many gussets. Nor does it seem to make any difference, in the case of the present invention, when but a single fairly weak thread is used to sew the various seams The relative dimensions and edge shapings described in connection with Figure 5 are desirably modified to permit well known principles ofv the cutters art to be applied after settling on the sex, age and degree of stoutness of the figure to be clothed; to provide a garment which when worn will be free from any noticeable bunching or binding anywhere, and to give maximum ethciency 1n the seat reinforcement according to the invention.

It is recommended that edge portion 13 should not be made so concave that any part of a leg seam'will touch or approach the material adjacent to the line 31 111 man'- ner to interfere with formation of bundling 32 on the occurrence of a cross-seat strain.

1 claim:

1. A bifurcated apparel garment as described, including a pair of sections each having from waist to the bottom of the garment a rear edge composed of an upper edge portion (11 an intermediate edge portion (11) flared downwardly and outwardly to include a concave curve, and a lower edge portion (13); said curved edge portions stitched together to form the crotch seam and said lower edge portion (13) of each section stitched to another edge portion (13) thereon to form a leg seam on each section the lower end (14) as well as the upper end 14 of the lower edge portion (13) being oflset in a direction (17-14) along a straight of the goods from the lower end (11) of the upper edge portion (11), the lower end (14) of said lower edge portion (13) being thus offset at least approximately one-sixth as much as the upper end (14) of said lower edge portion (13), and a point (an) on the intermediate curved edge portion (11), where such curve is cut on a bias to the goods, defining, with the lower end (14) of the lower edge portion (13), a straight line (31) containing a straight of the goods; whereby in the finished garment a line of pull across the seat substantially perpendicular to the crotch seam will cause the seat material to form a hook-over bundling (32) extended in pull-strain-absorbing position substantially perpendicular to the-crotch seam 111).

2. A bifurcate apparel garment as described, including a pair of sections each having from waist to the bottom of the garme'nt a rear edge composed of an upper edge portion (11), an intermediate edge portion (11,) flared downwardly and outwardly to include a concave curve, and a lower edge portion (13); said curved edge portions &

stitched together to form the crotch seam and said lower edge portion (13) of each section stitched to another edge portion (13) thereon to form a leg seam; on each section the lower end 14') as well as the upper end 14 of the ower edge portion (13) being offset in a direction along a straight of the goods from t e lower end (11) of the upper edge portion (11), the lower end (14 of said lower edge portion (13) being 1: us olfset approxlmately one-half as much as the upper end (14.) of said lower edge portion (13), and the lower end (1 1) of the lower edge portion-(13) together with a point (an) on the curve 0 the intermediate edge portion (11) where such curve is cut on a bias to the straight of the goods, defining a straight line (31) containing a straight of the goods which will lie substantially parallel to a line of pull across the finished garment perpendicular to the crotch-seam (111) whereby such pull will cause the seat material on the two sections to curl up on itself to form a hook over bundling (32) extended in pull-strainabsorbing position transverse to the crotch seam (111) of the garment.

3. A arment according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the intermediate curved portion (11) of therear edge of each section is so shaped, and such sections are so cut from the goods, that there is substantially a continuously progressive decrease of inclination, to the straight (125) of the goods running up and down the section, of the successive points establishing the curved portion (11), alom a subdivision thereof which runs upwardly toward the lower end (11) of the upper portion (11") of the rear edge from a point on such curved portion which lies near the upper terminus (w) of said line of pull, whereby durin intensification of said pulling stress said bundling (32) becomes wound into a more and more compact and a stronger and stronger rope-like reinforcement the more the pulling stress is increased. a

4. A arment according to claim 3, characterize by the fact that the lower portion (13) of the rear edge of each section is sub stantially straight between theknee-point (14') of the finished garment and the upper end (14:)of such lower portion (13),-to prevent a leg seam on the finished garment from substantially hindering the setting up of said bundling. i

ISADORE LESSON, Also Known as Isadore L. Lesavoy. 

